Style never ages and classic dishes never go out of fashion, as Sarah Douglas discovers at Breezes Seminyak.
If the test of a chef is how well he can cook an omelette, the test of a five star resort kitchen should be their burgers, or so we decided when lunching at the five-star Breezes at Samaya Resort in Seminyak.
Food reviewers sometimes crave the sanity of comfort foods and this was one such occasion.
Breezes is aptly named for its location overlooking Seminyak beach allowing the natural sea breeze to float through the open restaurant, a series of simple terraces surrounding a central bar with spectacular uninterrupted views of the ocean.
The resort itself has stood the test of time, almost Bauhaus in its simplicity, with a wide flat lawn punctuated by a pool and a wooden deck that reaches towards the ocean. Breezes has been visited by a number of high profile chefs but for the last four years, local Chef Surya has been at the helm. The extremely personable General Manager, Ray, is a former chef and his stamp can be found on many of the dishes including what was an absolute stand out, lamb pie.
There is something that is just plain indulgent about ordering a five-star burger. This one is a tasty blend of minced wagyu with onion jam, a sharp cheddar melted over it and a fresh brioche bun that was perfectly complimented by twice cooked hand-cut chips. It was a perfect rendition of a great burger and we couldn’t fault it.
Looking over the menu, which traverses a myriad of styles to suit the mixed clientele, home-made Australian pies caught our eye. Offered with lamb, beef or chicken, we decided to try the lamb pie, not really knowing what to expect.
Honestly, I would crawl back to have this again, it was that good. A melting pastry surrounded succulent pieces of slow cooked lamb, served with a green salad with pecans (although the menu stated walnuts, we weren’t complaining), and an onion and red wine jus. Like the burger, it was a classic dish that was perfectly executed. The pastry was worthy of high praise, buttery and flaky and well up to the task of encasing the gravy laden filling. I almost asked for the recipe, I still may.
It is quickly apparent that doing things well has established a strong following for Samaya, with a great many guests returning and the resort was buzzing. With so many new resorts opening in Bali it is easy to forget some of our finer, older properties yet this one exhibits timeless style, beautifully maintained, in a great location with a dedication to getting it right. Its all in the details and this is a stand out with seamless service and a dash of formality.
The lunch menu at Breezes is filled with dishes that play perfectly in this location: classic salads, big sandwiches, Japanese, Chinese and Indo dishes, grills and seafood. The dinner menu is a slightly grander affair but tailored for a resort clientele who literally have a world of great restaurants within walking distance. Sometimes you need a night in and something delicious to eat that doesn’t overextend itself, or the diner, rather that it’s well executed, looks good and tastes just the way it should.
No review would be complete without a glance at the dessert menu and here we found something that sounded a little weird, so naturally we had to order it. Molten lava cakes are not new, this one however came with the addition of coconut and a decadent sauce of curried caramel. Intriguing and strangely delicious, the deep, rich flavor combined perfectly with a tangy wild berry ice cream and the slow eruption of molten chocolate. It was lovely.
Breezes is a popular hang out at sunset with its position directly overlooking the beach, a time when cocktails are king and the sofas spread out over the lawn are filled with both guests and visitors.
Revisiting Breezes was a delightful reminder that style never ages and classic dishes never go out of fashion.